Munter hitch
Belays or lowers with only a carabiner and a rope
Mezzo barcaiolo in Italian
When to use it
A backup when a belay device is lost Flips through the carabiner when the pull changes side
What to check
Use a wide pear-shaped locking carabiner The loaded rope stays on the spine side Twists the rope with use
Safety
A diagram does not replace practice Learn this knot with a qualified instructor before relying on it