Autoblock
A friction backup for an abseil, wrapped and clipped
Machard in Italian
When to use it
Backs up the brake strand during an abseil Releases by hand while it slides
What to check
Three or four turns for the rope in use The knot of the cord stays away from the wraps Test it before leaving the anchor
Safety
A diagram does not replace practice Learn this knot with a qualified instructor before relying on it